How to change your automatic transmission fluid and filter

Transmission fluid... How often do you even think of changing your automatic fluid? Probably not that often, not until it starts to slip, but then its too late. To many people changing the tranny fluid and filter seems a little bit of out of reach for them to do....whether it seems too hard to do, or if its just the fact they don't know how to do it. In reality its pretty easy to do, although it might get a little messy, it shouldn't be hard at all.
This "how to" is aimed at automatic transmissions in general. Most mustangs that have autos are either AOD's, AODE's or 4R70W's, but this was made to give you a general idea on how to change the tranny filter and fluid on most transmissions.

1. First thing to do is to make sure you have the right tools for the job.
-You'll need the transmission filter and gasket, never use the old gasket or filter over.
-You'll need a drain pan big enough to hold all of the tranny fluid.
-You will need a ratchet and socket set, or at least a ratchet with the right sockets to fit the transmission pan bolts.
-You will also need the regular stuff to jack the car up...Jack, Jack stands, Wheel chocks.
-Also make sure you have enough of the right type of tranny fluid for your particular transmission.

On 4 wheel drive Chevrolet trucks you will need to remove the bracket that attaches the shifting cable to the transmission to be able to remove the transmission pan.

2. The next thing to do is to jack the car up, and put the wheel chocks, and jack stands in place. As always, never ever get under that car unless it is properly supported by jack stands, never get under a car only supported by a jack.

3. Place the drain pan under the transmission pan. A wide drain pan is very helpful at this point.

4. Find the right socket, and loosen all of the transmission pan bolts. Loosen them, but don't take them all out. At this point trans fluid should be pouring out. If its not then gently pry the tranny pan loose. Let it drain, then take all of the bolts out.
The reason you don't just remove all of the pan bolts at one time is because you need to let the tranny fluid drain, if you do remove all the bolts before it drains, you'll make a BIG mess.

5. Remove the tranny filter. Usually you have to remove two or three bolts to take the filter off. Make sure that you remove any gaskets that are between the filter and tranny too.

6. Clean up time. One of the biggest pains of doing a tranny filter is the fact that you have to scrape all of the old gasket off the tranny and tranny pan. So get to it! Gently scrape if off and clean everything up. Sometimes scraping the old gasket off is really easy, other times you wish you weren't born...LOL

7. Now that everything is cleaned off its time to install the new filter. Make sure that if you removed any gaskets that were between the filter and tranny that you replace it with a new gasket. Not doing so will damage the transmission.
Make sure you line up the filter with right holes or you'll be going nowhere when you're done.

8. Last thing to do under the car is to put the pan and new gasket on. Try to line up the gasket with the right holes on the pan and use a couple of bolts to hold the gasket in place. Usually just pushing a few bolts through the pan holes and then through the gasket will help hold the gasket in place until you are ready to put it on the tranny. Then hold the pan up to the transmission and tighten a few bolts. Make sure the gasket stays in place. Obviously.....tighten all of the bolts.
Note: Never use any type of glue or RTV on the gasket or as a substitute for a gasket. Why? You may be asking...because if any of the dry rtv falls into the tranny it will clog it up, causing major tranny damage.

9. Next thing to do is to lower the car, add the proper amount of fluid for your particular tranny and start the car up. While holding your foot on the brake put the car through all of the gears to let the fluid circulate. Put the car back in park and check for any leaks. Re-check the fluid with the engine running (at idle), with the tranny is park.
-Remember that not following all manufacturer's specifications, and instructions can/will cause severe transmission damage.

How to flush a car's radiator

A car's radiator

is the heart of its cooling system. To operate properly it must be clean and clear of blockages and there must be no leaks in the system.

The radiator's function is to get rid of the heat from the hot water circulating in the cooling system. The hot water enters the top tank in the radiator, filters down through the core fins of the radiator and cools, then returns to the engine through the water pump

.

If you have a factory sealed radiator there is no need to do anything unless you detect leaks.

If you have a non-sealed type of radiator you need to check the water level at least once a week and top it up if necessary.

The non-sealed radiator should be checked regularly and cleared of leaves, insects, paper or any other obstructions which can restrict air flow going through it. Do not scrape objects off as this may damage the radiator core. Use a hose to soak and wash things off.

Ideally a radiator and cooling system should be flushed out every six months. This helps avoid blockages in the core and accumulation of rust in the system.

Too often motorists neglect radiators until something bad happens which is why radiator problems are perhaps the most common cause of on-road breakdowns.

How To Flush and Clean a Non-Sealed System

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface with engine switched off and heater switch turned to on position. Cover the engine to protect it from splashes.

2. Take off the radiator cap. Turn tap at bottom of radiator to let water out and disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses.

3. Inspect the condition of the hoses. If they are brittle or soggy replace them with new ones.

4. Inspect the old liquid that comes out of the radiator. If it is clean, that's good. If it's dirty, especially if it's brown with rust, the system needs an extra special flushing. Whatever happens flush the system anyway.

5. Put the water hose into the top of the radiator and let it gently flush through for a while, hopefully until the water runs clean again.

6. Put the hose in the bottom radiator outlet and reverse flush. Then flush from the top again .

7. Flush through the engine cooling jacket to remove any deposits.

8. With a very dirty radiator use a can of radiator flush. This involves putting the hoses back on, topping up with water again, inserting the flush treatment and running the engine for a while to loosen corrosion deposits. Then you empty the radiator again and flush again with a water hose, as previously described.

9. When flushing is completed, close radiator tap, refit hoses and fill radiator with coolant. Most modern coolants include corrosion inhibitors and are preferable to plain water.

10. Before replacing the radiator cap, check its condition. If it is old or rusted, put a new one on.

11. Start the engine and let it run while checking for leaks.

12. Go for a drive and check that the cooling system is functioning properly. After this, keep the engine running and again check for leaks.

13. When the engine has cooled down check the coolant level to see if it needs further topping up.

Tip

If your radiator has a leak you can purchase a can of leak sealer. This is put in your coolant but is only for small leaks and is only a temporary measure. You can't rely on this in the long term.

If a radiator leaks it's best to take it to a specialist for repair or get an exchange unit.

How To Change Your Brake Pads

Nothing is more important than your car's ability to stop itself.

Even race car drivers will tell you that a car's braking capacity takes precedence over its acceleration. Putting a car through a wall is not nearly as much fun as touching the brakes slightly, banking into a turn, and scooting out the other side. Nor as safe.

But braking systems often fail us -- usually from our own neglect. Even Formula One cars won't stop as effectively with worn brake pads. It's the equipment, folks, not the driver.

In the case of braking, it's essential that we maintain optimum friction pad depth to insure maximum performance of the braking system. In layman's terms: change your brake pads!

In previous articles at Edmunds.com we've discussed the ins and outs of braking systems. The link below provides an excellent primer on the differences between drum and disc brakes. You might want to read it before going any further.

Okay, here's the deal. We're not going to go into some long, drawn-out discussion about the advantages and disadvantages of various braking systems, drag coefficients, friction rates, kinetic versus thermal energy, etc., etc. What we're going to do here is roll up our sleeves and do a brake reline. Leave that other stuff to the armchair mechanics, the sideline slackers.

As always with our How To columns, we suggest that you own a basic tool kit and have the time to commit to the task. This will take a few hours. In exchange, we hope to teach you a little something about braking systems and what makes them tick.

As we said at the outset, nothing is more important than your car's ability to stop itself. Learning about the braking system -- how it works, ways to maintain it, when to fix it, what to look for while you're in there -- will not only make you a smarter driver, but a safer one too.

Since we have a limited amount of space here, we're going to focus exclusively on changing the front brake pads. Ninety percent of the brake pad changes you make during the life of your vehicle will be to the front pads.

You can check for brake pad wear by viewing the pads from outside the front tire. On most cars, you can look through the openings on the outside of the wheel/rim assembly to see the pads. (Of the six cars we looked at for this story, all but one had the pads clearly visible. On rare occasions, you may have to remove the wheel to see the pads.) The outside pad should be staring you in the face. Look at it from above. The pad will be pressed against the shiny metal rotor. See it?

Now, there are two way to determine whether the pads need replacing.

First, visually. If the pad depth is less than ¼ inch, plan on replacing it soon. If it's less than 1/8 inch, you're getting close to damaging the rotor, so do it ASAP. This varies slightly from car to car, but is a good general guideline.

Second, by ear. They build these little noisemaking shims into the brake assembly to tell you when the pads need changing. Are you hearing a screeching sound when you apply the brakes, like a mouse trying to escape? You're overdue for a reline. (If the sound is more a scrape-y metal rasp, you've already damaged your rotors and need to fix the brakes immediately.)

Okay, you've determined that the front pads are due for replacement. Remember the rule here: better too soon than too late, which can result not only in more expensive repairs, but unsafe driving conditions as well. So let's go...

STEP 1: Comfort first. Park the car in a cool, shady spot.

STEP 2: Now safety. Block the rear wheels so the car won't roll once you jack it up. Put the car in park and set the parking brake firmly.

STEP 3: Lay out your tools. Grab a tire iron and go to the front wheels. The tire iron is that long metal rod with a socket on the end of it that usually comes with the vehicle. You can also buy a really cool one (called a spinner) that looks like a metal cross -- in fact, it is a metal cross -- with different-sized sockets on each end.

What we want to do here, before jacking the car up off the ground, is loosen the lug nuts on the wheels just enough to break them free. So go do that. Work them off just enough until they loosen their resistance and become easy to turn with the tire iron. Now slip the jack under the car.

There are several places to safely jack up the car. If you have a floorjack, you can roll it all the way under to the center of the engine and jack it up using the K-member that holds the engine. Be careful not to use the oil pan, as you might damage it. If you have a smaller, single floor jack, you'll have to do one side at a time. Look for flat spots on the frame, immediately to the rear of the front wheels, or on the end of each axle.

CAUTION: Always use jack stands. Never attempt to work on an elevated vehicle held in place only by a hydraulic jack.

Okay, raise the front axle off the ground. Put your jack stands under each end of the axle, and lower the car onto the stands. A jack stand (see illustration) is a metal tripod with variable height adjustments. You should own two.

STEP 4: Remove the lug nuts and the wheel (the tire will be attached). Best to work on one wheel at a time, leaving the other side intact as a point of reference. As a safety precaution, roll the wheel/tire assembly under the front-center of the car, between the jack stands, and plop it down beneath the engine's K-member. In the event of a faulty jack stand, this will break the vehicle's fall and could possibly save your life.

STEP 5: Okay, take a breather. Now let's look at what we have before us.

A disc brake assembly is composed of the following elements: a caliper, two brake pads, a rotor, and some bolts and clips to hold it alltogether. It's a very simple design. Here's how it works.

The caliper comes in two flavors -- floating or fixed. Each works on a similar principle. The caliper's job is to squeeze the brake pads toward a centrally located metal plate -- the rotor -- producing friction, which in turn slows the car. Think of a hand slowly clamping down on a spinning record (or a CD, for you youngin's who've never heard the term "record" before).

The brake pads hover on either side of the metal plate. They attach to the inside of the caliper, depending on your car's design, with clips or bolts. They are composed of heat-resistant material that rubs against the rotor. When the brakes are applied, the pads move toward one another, gripping the rotor between them and slowing the wheels.

The rotor is that shiny metal disc staring you in the face right now. You can almost see your reflection, right? Get your eyes level with it. If you can't see your face, or at least its general outline, it may mean that the disc needs servicing or replacement. Below, we'll show you how to check this disc for scoring or marring, and what to do about that.

STEP 6: Back to work. Remove the bolts holding the caliper in place. Gently slide it out and away from the rotor. Inspect the inside of the caliper. See the pads? They will be held in place by a bolt or a series of clips, sometimes both. Remove the bolts or clips holding the pads in place (remember, you left the other side intact to use as a reference) and work them free. Examine the pads. Is there any "meat" left on them, or are they worn down to the screws? If they're completely worn, you should've been hearing a metallic scrape for a while every time you applied the brakes.

Lay the pads aside and inspect the rotor. Can you see yourself in it? If the pads were worn into the metal, your rotor will be scored; you'll have trouble seeing yourself. Run your fingernails along the surface of the rotor -- careful, though; if it's been less than 20 minutes since you last drove the vehicle, they might still be hot -- first the side facing you, then the side facing away. Is it scored? Deeply? This next point is very important. If the rotor has any grooves at all in it, remove it at once. Now you have a decision to make.

If you have a scored rotor, you must decide whether to have it "turned" or to replace it. If you're short on money, take it to a local mechanic and ask him to "turn" it for you. What they do is put it on a special metal-cutting lathe and shave off several thousandths of an inch of metal until the disc is shiny again. Remember, though, one of the real advantages of disc brakes over drum is their heat-handling capability. By removing metal, you reduce the system's thermal transfer capacity. We recommend turning the discs only when you are short on bucks. The better way is to take the disc to the auto parts store, match it up with a replacement, and buy a new one. Last time we did this, it only cost us twenty bucks for a new rotor, a cheap investment in safety. You have to go there anyway to buy the new brake pads, as well as a few other things, so why not make it one trip. In fact, here's your shopping list:

• new rotor, or rotors, if needed
• new brake pads (bring the old ones, to match them)
• brake pad grease (comes in little packets; they're cheap, so buy two)

STEP 7: Go home and have a lemonade.

STEP 8: Before you go any further, you must move the piston back to its "full open" position. The piston? you ask. Ah, we didn't tell you about that one, did we? Remember the hand-and-record analogy. As the fingers push down (equivalent to the brake pads wearing) the distance between the brake pads shortens. Now that we have brand new pads, we must return the system -- the hand -- to its original "open" position, to accommodate the new pads. There are several ways to do this.

First, find the piston. It is located along the back (closest to the engine) portion of the caliper. It's usually about three to four inches across, and resembles a small metal promontory with a flat top. See it? Depending on its condition and age, there are several things you can do to move it back (toward the center of the car). If it's new, try pushing it in with the heel of your hand. Doesn't work? Okay, then try a channel lock or a vise grip. Still won't budge? Then here's a suggestion. A neighbor of ours turned us on to this once, and it works great. Get a large C-clamp, place a thin piece of wood or cardboard over the face of the piston to protect the surface from marring, and work it back that way. As you turn the handle on the clamp, it will increase pressure on the piston, until it becomes flush with the surrounding metal. Then loosen and remove the C-clamp.

STEP 9:Install the new rotor, if necessary. Remove the old brake pads from the caliper (usually held in place by several clips), but, before putting on the new ones, you must do something. Remember the little packets of grease you bought? These are used to lubricate the brake pads. Careful now -- not on the front of the pad, which comes in contact with the rotor, but on the back. The pads attach to the caliper via a plate-and-clip arrangement. The lubricant goes between the plate and the back of the brake pad. Got it?

Don't overlook this. If you don't do it, you'll get a horrible screeching sound every time you apply the brakes, like a dinosaur in heat (and you know how horny those velociraptors used to get). After you apply the grease, attach the pad to the plate and slide the whole thing into place.

STEP 10:. Basically, at this point, just reassemble the system in reverse order of the way you took it apart. Now do the other side. Take the car for a test spin. Sometimes, with new brakes, you can get some weird scraping and scratching sounds; these will usually go away in a few days. Clean up, and you're done.

Don't underestimate the importance of a brake reline. As we said at the outset, absolutely nothing is more important than your car's ability to stop itself. Knowing more about your car's braking system -- getting in there and actually seeing what's going on -- empowers and informs you in a way that going to the corner mechanic doesn't

How to Tune Up a Car

Your car should receive a tune-up (often referred to as a "major service") every two years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first. During this tune-up your car will receive some new parts that will hopefully keep it out of the shop for a while. Here's what needs to be done.

Things You'll Need:

• Fuel Filters
• Car Parts
• Spark Plugs
• Car Manuals
• Oil Filters
• Phillips-head Screwdriver Sets
• Distributor Caps
• Air Filters
• Spark Plug Gapping Tools
  

1. Step 1

   Replace the fuel filter. If you have a fuel-injection system, regular cleaning isn't necessary unless the injectors are clogged.

2. Step 2

   Change the spark plugs (unless they're platinum, in which case you have 30,000 more miles to go). Also examine the spark plug wires and replace as needed. A new set of high-quality wires is worth the cost. They may be permanently attached to the distributor cap, so it will have to be changed as well.

3. Step 3

   Replace the distributor cap and rotor if your car has them (some newer models with distributorless ignition don't).

4. Step 4

   Change the points and condenser if you have an older car (roughly 1978 or older) that doesn't feature electronic ignition. You'll actually want your points changed, or at least adjusted, every six months or so (if they're changed, check the ignition timing as well).

5. Step 5

   Check the ignition timing and adjust as needed (rare for a car with electronic ignition--post-1980--and some cars don't allow this at all).

6. Step 6

   Adjust the valves as needed (unless your car has hydraulic valves). Be sure to replace the valve-cover gasket as well, especially if you see oil on top of your engine.

7. Step 7

   Check the belts. Replace if worn.

8. Step 8

   Check the fluids under the hood and replenish as necessary. Change the oil and oil filter if it's been 3,000 miles since the last oil change.

9. Step 9

   Replace the air filter, which should be changed between major services--every 15,000 miles--as well.

10. Step 10

    Adjust the clutch, if you have a manual transmission (although some cars now sport self-adjusting clutches).

11. Step 11

    Service the battery, adding distilled water (if required), cleaning terminals and cable ends.

12. Step 12

    Replace the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. It can make your car run rough or stall if it gets clogged, and it's cheap and easy to replace.

NOTE

A tune-up isn't a cure all, but when done regularly, it can prevent a host of expensive problems.

Changing The Motor Oil

Be leave it or not but there's a lot of people that has never changed the oil in there car or don't know how to do it.

Plan to change your motor oil every 3,000 miles or every 3 months if you want to be on the safe side, but know that most cars no longer require an oil change after every 3,000 miles. You will not damage the engine by letting it run 4,000 miles in between oil changes. However, if you've been driving in very hot and/or dusty conditions you should stick to the 3,000 mile schedule, or even more frequent changes.

1. Step 1

   Gather necessary tools and materials (refer to Necessary Items list). If you plan to change your oil regularly, consider investing in jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan.

2. Step 2

   Run the car's engine for 10 minutes before you drain the oil. Warm oil drains faster than cold oil.

3. Step 3

   Park the car on a level surface, engage the parking brake and turn off the engine. If your car has a low clearance, raise it by driving it onto some car ramps or by jacking it up and supporting it securely.

4. Step 4

   Open the hood and place the new oil and funnel on top of the engine to ensure that you won't forget to add oil afterwards (an expensive mistake that many do-it-yourselfers make!).

Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter

5. Step 1

   Crawl under the car once it is securely supported.

6. Step 2

   Locate the oil drain plug on the underside of the engine, usually near the front center of the car. Consult your owner's manual for the exact location.

7. Step 3

   Place the oil drain pan under the plug and loosen the plug with a socket wrench. Remember: turn counterclockwise to remove bolts.

8. Step 4

   Remove the plug by hand. Be prepared for the rush of hot oil!

9. Step 5

   Let the oil drain into the pan. Hold onto the plug.

10. Step 6

    Reposition the pan, if necessary, to catch all the dripping oil.

11. Step 7

    Wipe off the drain plug and the plug opening when the oil finishes draining.

12. Step 8

    Replace the drain plug gasket.

13. Step 9

    Reinstall the plug. Always start threading any bolts or screws by hand to prevent cross threading.

14. Step 10

    Tighten with a wrench or socket. Be careful not to overtighten the plug.

15. Step 11

    Locate the existing oil filter. Oil filters are usually on the side of the engine.

16. Step 12

    Position the oil pan underneath the filter to catch any remaining oil.

17. Step 13

    Use an adjustable oil filter wrench to unscrew the old oil filter.

18. Step 14

    Use a rag to wipe the area where the filter mounts to the engine. Make sure the rubber seal of the old filter is not stuck to the engine.

19. Step 15

    Use some new oil to lightly coat the rubber seal of the new filter.

20. Step 16

    Screw the new filter into place by hand. It's usually not necessary to tighten the oil filter with the oil filter wrench, but have it at the ready if you're grip's not strong (or large) enough.

Installing New Oil and Cleaning Up

21. Step 1

    Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine. Remove it.

22. Step 2

    Place the funnel in the opening and pour in the new oil. Typically, you will use 4 to 5 quarts of oil. Check your manual for the correct oil capacity.

23. Step 3

    Replace the cap when you're finished.

24. Step 4

    Run the engine for a minute, then check the dipstick. Add more oil if necessary.

25. Step 5

    Check the area around the oil drain plug and the filter for oil leaks. Tighten the plug or oil filter if you find leakage.

26. Step 6

    Use rags and newspapers to wipe away excess oil.

27. Step 7

    Pour the used oil into a plastic container after the used oil cools.

28. Step 8

    Dispose the used oil properly: either bring it to a recycling center or an auto repair shop that can recycle it for you. Don't pour it down the sewer!

How to Retrofit Air Conditioning in Cars to New Refrigerant

If A/C in your car no longer works, you can retrofit your air conditioning system to accept refrigerant currently available. Before you do this, make sure your A/C tries to turn on (clicks and runs, but does not get cold).

1. Skip to step 4 if your car is a '96 model or newer, If your car is a '95 model or older, continue reading. Many GM models from '94 on are R134a and would fall under the '96 and newer category. To verify, look under the hood of the car for a label that will tell you what refrigerant the system uses.
2. Have the freon (R12) still in the system evacuated with a recovery machine by a licensed professional.
3. Buy a "dryer" at an auto parts store, and replace the original in your car. A sales rep in the store can tell you where the dryer is and how to change it out.
4. Replace the dryer. Remember to replace the "o" rings supplied with the new dryer.
5. Go to your nearest auto service center and ask them to vacuum down your A/C system (at a cost of approximately $5-15). This process removes atmosphere from the system.
6. On existing R-12 systems you might want to consider a replacement refrigerant -- next step or if not, Purchase an A/C retrofit kit for R-134a refrigerant ($30) at your local auto parts store. Also purchase enough refrigerant to fill your system (the sales rep can tell you how much you need). Do not forget to buy a can of "oil charge" for your A/C system. Failure to do so will seize your compressor, necessitating a $500+ repair.
7. Explore using a substitute for R-12 systems. There are other refrigerants available that are superior to R-134 for use in older R-12 systems and may also be used in R-134 systems. In general, they are cheaper than R-134. However, be aware that some of these are based on flammable gases. Since your fuel system is also pressurized, that would be an equivalent or worse fire hazard. There are several EPA accepted R-12 replacements, check with the EPA web site for specific approved products (Freeze 12 is a good one.)
8. Connect the kit to your car, referring to the supplied instructions.
9. Start the car and turn the A/C on full blast. Use the kit to add the oil charge first, and then the refrigerant that your car needs. Be careful not to overfill. Note: To get the refrigerant to move from the can into the system, you can use a pitcher of warm water. Put the can right side up into the water and stir the water with it. The temperature difference will help force the freon into the system.
10. Keep the car running, and check to see if it produces nice cold air. If it's not really cold, you need to add more refrigerant. It is highly recommended to use gauges to monitor the pressure on your AC system. If you don't, you may blow a seal costing lots of money to fix!
11. For more details on the above procedure check out this site: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging

NOTES

• It is illegal and harmful to the environment to release refrigerant into the air.
• DO NOT forget to get your A/C system evacuated prior to adding new refrigerant. R-12 refrigerant (freon) DOES NOT MIX with R-134a refrigerant (the new stuff). Failure to do so will cause the "black death syndrome" in which the conflicting refrigerants will turn into a black goo that clogs your entire A/C system, resulting in a $900 plus repair.
• DO NOT FORGET to REPLACE YOUR DRYER in cars '95 model year and older. Failure to do so will result in the "black death syndrome" as well.
• Follow instructions that come with your retrofit kit and you will be fine.

How to Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car

Do-it-yourself auto air conditioning recharging requires eye protection, a charging kit, refrigerant, and some practical knowledge. Keep in mind, if you do not have the manufacturer's specifications and a charging manifold with gauges, you will not be able to do a professional job, but many people successfully recharge their ACs with kits available at department stores and auto partsstores. Try to get a kit that includes a pressure gauge, this will make troubleshooting and charging easier.


STEP 1

Determine if you have any refrigerant left in your system at all. To do this, you will need to fit a charging hose on the low pressure port, discussed later. Be sure to use eye protection. If your system is completely discharged, it may be contaminated with moisture, and charging will not give satisfactory results unless the source of the leak is found, repaired and the receiver dryer replaced. The open system must be repaired and purged using a vacuum pump to remove air and moisture. You will also want to add compressor oil if the system has been leaking. Evidence of oil leakage and measurement of oil left in a replaced compressor will be a guide as to how much oil to replace.

STEP2

Check for any obvious leaks. If your system has lost sufficient refrigerant to quit working, you have a leak. Small leaks may take months to deplete the refrigerant so that the AC fails to cool, but charging a system with a significant leak is simply a waste of time. Look for refrigerant oil residue on hose, tubing, and fittings that are part of the refrigerant system. Spray a soapy water solution on fittings and watch for bubbles to appear, indicating a leak.

STEP3

Make sure the condensing coils are not obstructed with debris, and that the compressor is operating. To test a compressor with a low charge you may need to jump the pressure switch, often located on the accumulator.

STEP4

Tap your refrigerant can. This is done by opening the valve on the tapping fitting completely open, which retracts the tapping pin into the valve body. Failing to do so will result in the tap puncturing the can when it is installed, releasing the refrigerant before the fitting is sealed.

STEP5

Securely thread the tapping valve on the refrigerant can, close the valve completely shut. This drives the pin into the top of the can, making it possible to release the refrigerant when the valve is opened.

STEP6

Purge the charging hose by opening the valve until you hear it fill with refrigerant, then slowly loosening the brass fitting that connects the hose to the valve. Be careful not to allow refrigerant to spray on bare skin, as this will freeze skin tissue on contact. Re-tighten the hose once you have heard refrigerant escaping, this should have forced any air (and moisture) from the hose.

STEP7

Locate the low pressure charging port on the refrigerant line on your car. This will be on the larger tube, usually near or on the accumulator. Connect the quick coupling and make sure it is not leaking.

STEP8

Crank your engine and turn the AC on high cool, high fan. If your recharging hose is equipped with a pressure gauge, check it to determine if the system needs refrigerant. If the pressure holds steady in the recommended range, the system is full and should not be charged. If the pressure is below the recommended range, follow the instructions to recharge the system. Another indicator that the system needs refrigerant is that the compressor cycles rapidly. If the compressor switches on and off every 5 to 20 seconds, it is most likely due to low pressure. You will see the pressure drop when the compressor kicks on, the compressor will shut off when the pressure gets too low, and the pressure rises back up to the operating range as the system equalizes. Compressor cycling (switching on and off) in a completely charged system should be very slow (every 30 seconds or up) or not at all present (compressor stays on) in hot weather.

STEP9

Open the valve until you hear refrigerant passing through the hose.

STEP10

Allow the can to dispense its contents. This often takes anywhere from two to five minutes. The hotter the outside temperature, the more quickly the contents will discharge. Keep the can with the tap up at all times, to allow non-liquid refrigerant into the suction side of the system to prevent compressor damage. Do Not overcharge! A manifold gauge should be used to measure both high and low side pressure. Consult a Pressure temperature chart.

STEP11

Close the valve and disconnect the hose when the can is empty or no longer discharging enough to keep the can cold. Check the charging port for leaks, and replace the plastic cap.

STEP12

Check the air from the AC vents in the car. It should be blowing cold (38-45 degrees), if not, either one can of refrigerant was not sufficient to charge the system, or some other component is the problem. Do Not overcharge! A manifold gauge should be used to measure both high and low side pressure. Consult a Pressure temperature chart.


NOTE

Don't mix R-12 and R-134 refrigerant. This is illegal, and won't work anyway. R12 and R134a require different oil for lubrication. R-12 systems use a mineral oil, R-134a systems use a PAG oil. A mixture of the two could (and probably will) damage the compressor, the most expensive part of the A/C system. If you change the compressor, you must also change the filter/dryer and may have to flush the condenser. The only oil to use on a conversion is an "ester" type oil. This will be the most compatible with any remaining mineral oil still in the system.

Dodge Caravan a/c Clutch Replacement

The ac on this 3.3 liter Dodge Caravan is still working but it is now making a terrible noise when it is engaged. The other problem is that the ac is not disengaging and still makes noise after it is turned off. If the ac is still blowing cold air the compressor is probably still operating fine. If no cold air is blowing then you will first need to verify that there is enough coolant in the system to allow it to turn on. The other possibility is that the compressor has gone bad. This article will only cover the compressor which is a very common problem with ac units.



This plastic engine guard is located under the passenger side and will need to be removed to access the ac.













You can see by the yellow arrows that the spacing isn’t even and the piece is broken. The arrow points to the idle tensioner. The tensioner is generally loosened by rotating the piece with a ratchet or socket, but there isn’t enough room to get at this spot. Luckily located at the back of the belt tensioner is a block that an adjustable wrench fits on. Just rotate then slide the belt off the tensioner wheel.







This three jaw puller can be used to remove this pulley, first you will need to loosen the bolt located in the center of the pulley. As the pulley works out farther it will eventually pull out far enough to tighten up against the center bolt. As it comes out farther you will need to use a longer bolt until it comes off. Before you remove the pulley remove the center piece first and refer to the picture two spaces below.





The two arrows point to the cir-clip that will need to be removed for the bearing to come off. If you don’t remove it first you have what happened here. From this picture you see that the clip will still need to be removed, which includes reinstalling and uninstalling the pulley again for it to come off.








Here is the ac clutch coil which can be removed by the cir-clip shown by the center yellow circle. The plug for the ac clutch is shown in the red, the little orange clip will need to come out before the electrical connection will pull apart.










Here are the damaged ac clutch parts which show major wear.

Here are the new parts including the new cir-clip held in my hand. The beveled cir-clip edge must face outward. Always verify that the cir-clip is in the groove by rotating it in the groove.

Here is the new clutch reassembled on the old ac compressor unit. The feeler gauge is used to check the space shown here. There are a few small washers included that are placed behind the pulley to get this spacing correct. The spacing dimensions are shown below. The break-in procedure for the clutch is also shown below. Don’t skimp on procedures or the part may fail prematurely.

Replacing Ford Explorer / Ranger 4.0L V-6 Thermostat

Tools

1. 1/4in Drive Ratchet
2. 10mm Socket
3. Wobble Drive (or swivel adapter)
4. Socket Extension (possibly two)

Parts

1. Antifreeze and Flush (if desired)
2. Thermostat - Stant #29959 (195 deg) or a UAP/NAPA #33199
3. Rubber o-ring type gasket (no sealant required

   The Procedure

   Drain the coolant down below the thermostat level into a bucket.
   
   To make this job as easy as possible requires removing a few things. Also, watch out for the sharp rear edge of the fan shroud. First, the air duct from the MAF sensor to the throttle body must come out.
   Then get the accessory drive belt out of your way. This is very simple. Put a wrench on the spring-loaded tensioner and torque it to loosen the belt, then slip it off. The belt tensioner needs to be held in the tensioned position for access to the thermostat housing bolts, or it can be removed entirely. Removing the tensioner allows lots of room for you to put the thermostat housing back on.
   
   Next, there's a small wire harness running right through the area where ideally you'd like to stick your fingers to work that third bolt once you've loosened it. You can loosen the plastic clip holding this harness to the alternator bracket and move it out of the way (from the original position on the left of the housing to the right).
   
   
   
   Using a 1/4 drive ratchet with an extension connected to a swivel connected to an extension connected to a 10mm socket for getting the 3rd bolt in and out has been known to work. Beware of dropping the 10mm socket in that "next to impossible hole to get the socket out of area". Perhaps you should keep a magnetic retriever handy just in case.
   
   Pull the housing off with the hose still attached and then replace the thermostat. Then those famous words -- "Assembly is the reverse of disassembly." If you are having a little problem holding it all together, put a little 3M 8001 weather-strip adhesive on, just enough to keep it from falling out, no more.
   
   If your belt is more than maybe 40k old now's a good time to put a new one on. The old one should go in a Ziploc in the rear storage compartment for those road emergencies.
   
   Once you have installed the new thermostat you will need to burp the air out of the system. A simple procedure to do this is to add coolant and distilled water to the cold system until the fluid level is at the top of the radiator neck. Start the truck and let it warm up. When the thermostat opens and water begins to circulate, the traped air in the system should make its way to the filler neck. Keep adding distilled water to maintain the level at the top of the neck. After a while the coolant will warm up enough to start to expand, causing the coolant to start to rise in the neck on its own. When it does that, go ahead and put the cap back on, and top up the overflow bottle with coolant and distilled water to about two inches above the "cold fill" line.
   
   After driving the car for a day or two, check the level in the bottle and add as necessary. It's also a good idea to get the car up to full operating temp and check for leaks when the system pressure is highest.

Replacing Water Pump in a Chevy Silverado

Tips & Warnings

• Loud noises coming from the cooling system could be a sign that the water pump in your Chevy Silverado needs replacing. A leak in the coolant may also be an indicator.
• Disconnecting the negative battery cable may reset the on-board computer system or parts of the computer system, so be aware that you may have to reset certain settings.
• Never attempt to drain the radiator when the engine to your Chevy Silverado is hot. The steam and the hot coolant within the radiator can cause serious burns.

I recombine replacing all the hoses, belts and thermostat when replacing the water pump since you have to remove them.

Strep 1
Disconnect the negative battery cables and drain the coolant from the radiator. Remove the fan shroud while the coolant is draining.

STEP 2
Remove the serpentine belt and the water pump hoses, which are attached to the water pump.

STEP 3
Loosen and remove the bolts attached to the water pump and cooling fan. Be careful not to cause damage to the radiator while doing so.

STEP4
Remove the cooling fan from the water pump by using a wrench on the cooling fan nut and a strap wrench on the pulley.

STEP5
Attach the thermostat with its housing onto the new water pump. Install the cooling fan onto the new water pump and tighten the bolts lightly.

STEP6
Clean the water pump mating surface on the block with a scouring pad and scraper and install the new water pump, tightening the bolts to spec. Reattach all the hoses to the pump.

STEP7
Reinstall all components in the same order as you removed them.

STEP8
Reconnect the negative battery cable and refill the coolant. Start the engine and check for leaks when it reaches normal operating temperatures.

1996 DODGE NEON WITH DOHC AND SOHC WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT

Tools needed: Mopar balancer puller, you can get this at any auto parts store.

The only deference in a DOHC and a SOHC is the extra pulley.

STEP1:Drain the radiator first. Disconnect negative battery cable.
Raise vehicle, Remove right front wheel.
Remove belt splash shield.
Remove accessory drive belts.
Remove crankshaft damper.
Remove AC/Generator belt tensioner.
Disconnect generator connections. Remove generator and bracket.
Remove upper and lower timing belt covers (Fig. 100).
Remove coolant recovery container.
Remove right engine mount.
Remove engine support bracket. CAUTION: When aligning crankshaft and camshaft timing marks always rotate engine from crankshaft. Camshaft should not be rotated after timing belt is removed. Damage to valve components may occur. Always align timing marks before removing timing belt.

STEP2: Before the removal of the timing belt, rotate crankshaft until the TDC mark on oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket (trailing edge of sprocket tooth). NOTE: The crankshaft sprocket TDC mark is located on the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth. Failure to align trailing edge of sprocket tooth to TDC mark on oil pump housing will cause the camshaft timing marks to be misaligned.

STEP3: Loosen timing belt tensioner lock bolt (Fig. 105).
Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate CLOCKWISE until there is enough slack in timing belt to allow for removal.
Remove timing belt. CAUTION: If timing belt was damaged due to incorrect tracking (alignment), the belt tensioner pulley and bracket must be replaced as an assembly.STEP3: Loosen timing belt tensioner lock bolt (Fig. 105).
Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate CLOCKWISE until there is enough slack in timing belt to allow for removal.
Remove timing belt. CAUTION: If timing belt was damaged due to incorrect tracking (alignment), the belt tensioner pulley and bracket must be replaced as an assembly.


STEP4: Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.Set camshafts timing marks so that the exhaust camshaft sprocket is a 1/2 notch below the intake camshaft sprocket. CAUTION: Ensure that the arrows on both camshaft sprockets are








STEP5: Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and then around the tensioner.
Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to align marks and take up belt slack.
















STEP6: Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate COUNTERCLOCKWISE. The tensioner pulley will move against the belt and the tensioner setting notch will eventually start to move clockwise. Watching the movement of the setting notch, continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the alien wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, torque the tensioner lock bolt to 25 Nm (220 in. lbs.) . Setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after lock nut is torqued.
Remove alien wrench and torque wrench. NOTE: Repositioning the crankshaft to the TDC position must be done only during the CLOCKWISE rotation movement. If TDC is missed, rotate a further two revolutions until TDC is achieved. DO NOT rotate crankshaft counterclockwise as this will make verification of proper tensioner setting impossible.


STEP7: Rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE two complete revolutions manually for seating of the belt, until the crankshaft is repositioned at the TDC position. Verify that the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks are in proper position

STEP8: Check if the spring tang is within the tolerance window. If the spring tang is within the tolerance window, the installation process is complete and nothing further is required. If the spring tang is not within the tolerance window, repeat Steps 5 through 7.
Install engine mount support bracket.
Install upper timing belt cover. Torque fasteners to 6 Nm (50 in. lbs.) (Fig. 100).
Install the lower timing belt cover. Torque fasteners to 6 Nm (50 in. lbs.).
Install generator and bracket. Connect generator connections.
Install AC/Generator belt tensioner.
Install crankshaft damper.
Install right engine mount.
Install coolant recovery container.
Install accessory drive belts.
Install belt splash shield.
Install right front wheel.
Connect negative battery cable.